Once you have mastered the Japanese pull saw, the next essential item for your woodworking is the Kanna (Japanese Hand Plane).

A Kanna does far more than just smooth a piece of wood. It draws out the wood's natural, radiant gloss, creates a durable surface that resists water and dirt, and is an invaluable tool for correcting warped or distorted lumber.
In this guide, we will explore the unique characteristics of the Japanese Kanna and teach you the foundational tips for tuning and using it.

The Precision of the "Pull": A Mirror Finish that Enhances Beauty and Durability

While Western hand planes are pushed away from the body, the defining feature of the Japanese Kanna is that it is pulled toward you—just like a Japanese saw.
Pulling engages your core muscles rather than just your arms, allowing for incredibly delicate control over the tool and resulting in unparalleled precision.

You might wonder, "If I just need to smooth the surface,why not just use sandpaper?" The difference lies at the microscopic fiber level.
Sanding essentially relies on scratching the wood. It tears the fibers and leaves the wood's pores open, making it highly susceptible to absorbing moisture and dirt.

A Kanna, however, its razor-sharp blade cleanly slices off the top layer of fibers, sealing the wood's pores in the process. The result is a surface that naturally repels water and resists rot. Furthermore, because it creates a flat, mirror-like surface without the micro-scratches of sandpaper, the wood will exhibit natural gloss and a silky touch that sanding simply cannot achieve.

Preparation: Tuning the Blade with "Tap Adjustment"

A Japanese Kanna cannot be used straight out of the box. You must first tune the blade protrusion (how far the blade sticks out).

While Western planes use screws and dials, Japanese planes are adjusted simply by tapping them with a hammer (Genno). The lack of mechanical dials might seem intimidating at first, but for Japanese craftsmen, this intuitive system of "sound and feel" is actually the fastest and most reliable way to achieve micro-millimeter precision!

【Tuning a Single-Blade Kanna】

A single-blade Kanna has a simple structure, making it perfect for learning the basics. Remember these 3 steps:

１．To Advance the Blade: Lightly tap the top center of the iron (blade) with your hammer. The ideal protrusion is incredibly tiny—about 0.1mm to 0.2mm (about the thickness of a piece of paper).
２．To Retract the Blade: Tap the top chamfered back corners of the wooden block (Dai). The vibration will magically cause the blade to back out.
３．Lateral Adjustment: If the blade comes out skewed to one side, lightly tap the side of the blade that is protruding too much (the side you want to retract) until the cutting edge is perfectly horizontal.

【Tuning a Double-Blade Kanna】

A double-blade Kanna includes the main blade and a Chip Breaker (Uragane).
Adjusting the main blade is the same as with a single-blade plane. The chip breaker sits on top of the main blade. You should set the edge of the chip breaker about 0.3mm  "shy of" the main cutting edge. This chip breaker is the secret to preventing "tear-out" when planing wood grain!

Practice: 4 Tips for Flawless, Tissue-Thin Shavings

Once tuned, it's time to plane. Follow these tips to produce those iconic, beautifully transparent wood shavings (Kezuribana).

・Posture and Line of Sight: Stand squarely facing your wood and lower your hips. Wrap your dominant hand around the back of the wooden body (Dai). Place the fingers of your other hand close to the blade, applying gentle downward pressure. Keep your arms locked and pull backward using your whole body weight. Always look ahead at the line you are about to plane to maintain consistent pressure.

・Plane WITH the Grain: PThis is crucial. Wood grain has a direction. Planing with the grain feels smooth with little resistance. Planing against the grain causes the blade to dig into the fibers, resulting in a fuzzy, chipped, or torn-out surface. If the cut feels rough or requires too much effort, simply rotate your board 180 degrees and plane from the other direction!

・Maintain Horizontal Pressure Until the End: Keep the Kanna perfectly flat from the start of the board to the very end. If you let the front of the Kanna dip or drop off as you finish the stroke, you will round over the edge of your board.

・Maintain Your Tool: The wooden body (Dai) may slightly shift with humidity changes. If it wobbles, you can re-flatten the sole (the bottom of the Kanna) by rubbing it on sandpaper taped to a perfectly flat surface (like a piece of glass).
If you feel the blade is no longer cutting as sharp as before, check the condition of the blade. If you are using a plane with replaceable blades, simply swap it for a new one (Please note: SUIZAN does not offer replaceable blades for our Kanna)

The Ultimate Woodworking Thrill

At first, tuning and using a Kanna might feel challenging. But the moment you find the sweet spot and a perfectly continuous, tissue-thin shaving curls out from the tool, the feeling of satisfaction is absolutely indescribable.
Once you run your hand over that silky, glass-smooth surface and see the natural, deep glow of the wood, you will never want to go back to sanding again. We hope you enjoy the profound pleasure of bringing out the true beauty of wood with your very own hands!